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Feb03

Burgundy Report – Michel Noëllat (2021)

Burgundy Report – Michel Noëllat (2021)

Sophie on 2020: 

We harvested from 02 September. Confinement time was actually very busy as the vines were growing so fast but we had a good flowering. We waited for rain in the summer which unfortunately didn’t come. The grapes were nice though – warm – but we’re well equiped for that these days. Concentrated, beautiful, but nearly half a harvest.” 

Sophie on 2019: 

In 2019 the harvest brought a little more than in 2020 – but mot greatly so. We had good volumes in 17 and 18 but not for the last two years. We have an average vine age thats very old – nearly 70 – so we have anyway lower volume harvests. There’s plenty of work required because as much as we love the history in these vines, we need to bring the average age down a little.” 

The wines… 

I’m seeing very fine differentiation of the villages here – blind you would, most  likely, guess which is which. A delicious range of wines with a number of highly  recommendable bottles. 

2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune 

A mix of parcels, from 500-litre barrels. Vermots and Gollardes, to be bottled before the end of the year. 

Hmm, a compact but fine nose of darker fruit. Hmm, that’s simply delicious,  open nicely complex, a little floral perfume in the mouth. Stricter finishing, but  still only modestly-so. Lovely energy. 

2019 Fixin 

From 4 different parcels in Fissey – elevage in larger format barrels. A little more open, this nose is slightly more generous and floral. More direct,  nicely structured, again florals in the mix. Lovely mouth-watering finish. Love  this! 

2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Peuillets 

Higher-toned aromas. Wider, fuller but not denser. There’s some wc here that  really makes a difference – 30-40%. Long, nice wine here. Less density than  the previous wine – very different style but also very tasty. 

2019 Morey St.Denis 

From Les Sionnières 

Hmm, purer fruit here. More impact, lovely texture, mouth-watering – a finish  that suddenly takes off. That’s simply excellent Morey – highly recommended. 

2019 Chambolle-Musigny 

4 parcels again. 

Cliché perfume of florals – lovely. That’s so good. Density but without too  much weight, salivating, mineral. That’s a beautiful villages another super  wine. 

2019 Vosne-Romanée 

3 lieu-dits assembled. 

Perfume, though also some smoky barrel here. Hmm, that’s a nice line of  flavour, the tannin of the new barrel, again showing the village very well.  Excellent. 

2019 Nuits St.Georges 

2 parcels on the Vosne side of Nuits 

A little tighter in the higher tones, but here is a glossy and fine width of fresh  ripe dark red fruit. Open, growing with florals in the fruit, mouth-watering  again. Structured but not tannic – I like the shape and extra minerality here – just the tip of the tongue showing the tannin. That’s less showy but leaves a  very lovely impression… 

2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Noirots 

A little rounder, a little oak – a new demi-muid was used. Round in the mouth 

too, easy, only slowly releasing its complexity. Rather easy for a 1er today – I’d  happily drink it though. 

2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Chaumes 

An impression of a little wc aroma – but here there is none. Energy,  complexity, a little wood tannin. Long, layered. A very pretty wine again. 

2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots 

2 parcels, one on the top part near RSV, the other right in the middle of the lower part. 

Good depth of aroma – a little narrower in the width. Like the Chaumes, here  the wood tannin has altered the perception of the wine, hinting towards wc  when there’s none, the finishing flavour is lovely. The nose opening more and  more with air – very backwards-showing these 1ers – but each is getting  better all the time with air. 

2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er Beaumonts 

70-80 yo vines here. About 1 ha – they have similar to in Suchots – it seems to depend on the vintage as to whether this is shown before, or after, their Suchots.

A little smoky oak again, this needs plenty of air. A grain of tannin, but  probably more barrel-related. Wider, more layered and rich. Saline finishing, a  smaller but definitely not a shorter finish. Yum. 

2019 Nuits St.Georges 1er Boudots 

Vines next to Malconsorts 

More open and perfumed – there’s a little barrel here too, but this is an  attractive invitation. Hmm, that is a beautiful blend of freshness and silk – an  impressive depth of minty and ripe fruit but always with a little mouth watering side. That will be supper such a subtly long, long finish too. Excellent  wine! 

2019 Echézeaux du Dessous 

Here they have two parcels, but as they use Dessous on label, they don’t include the part in Treux. 

Now that’s a very forward and open nose. There’s a little almond and oak but  there is so much more too. Fresh, complex, mobile – a wine that plays across  the palate with super energy – the oak showing the flavours but not for too  long I expect. That’s excellent, even for an Echézeaux! 

2019 Clos de Vougeot 

2 parcels, one at the bottom the other next to the Château – almost half a hectare. 

More airy, more floral. Extra freshness more intensity too. Layered. More  impact and more structural. Thats a super wine and such a different wine to  the Echezeaux. Lovely and, of course, to wait for.